Ushba has a special place among the peaks of Svaneti. Ushba is distinguished not only among the peaks of Georgia, but also among the peaks of the world. It is among the 100 most difficult peaks in the world and is considered the most difficult peak to climb in the Caucasus.
Ushba is a prominent peak for Svans. There are many legends and stories about it. The love story of Ushba and Tetnuldi is especially popular. The legend tells us that Ushba came from a poor family and fell in love with the daughter of a rich family named Tetnuldi. Tetnuldi also loved Ushba. When Tetnuldi's family heard this news, they forbade Tetnuldi to communicate with Ushba. Tetnuldi, dressed in a wedding dress and asked God: "God, since it was not possible for me and Ushba to be together, at least stone us so that no one can prevent us from looking at each other." Since then, Ushba and Tetnuldi have been standing on the Caucasus ridge as if they were looking at each other.
Ushba has two peaks: South and North Ushba. The height of South Ushba is 4700 meters and North Ushba is 4690 meters. The first successful ascent of North Ushba belongs to English alpinists John Cockins and Ulrich Almer in 1888. In 1934, the first Georgian group climbed Ushba, consisting of brothers and sisters Alexandra and Aleksandre Japaridze, Gio Niguriani and Yagor Kazalikashvili. Besides, Alexandra Japaridze was the first woman to set foot on Ushba.
Since then, many successful and tragic expeditions have been organized on Ushba. The most tragic expedition was in 1984, when an avalanche killed 6 Georgian alpinists on the peak of Ushba. Today we know them as "Ushba boys".
Despite everything, the number of people attending Ushba is increasing every year. It is becoming more and more popular among both Georgian and foreign alpinists. Physical preparation and experience are required to climb Ushba. To climb Ushba, you must have a mountain guide that will ensure your safe ascent and descent.
Best time to climb:
The ideal period for climbing the northern route of Ushba is July-September. However, the microclimate of Ushba distinguishes it from other mountains.
The classic route to the Northern Ushba is technical. Alpine snow and ice climbing experience is required. To climb the North Ushba, you must be able to climb ice with a 60-degree slope. In addition, you should be acclimatized before climbing to the top. For this you can climb Tetnuldi or peak Laila.
Necessary equipment:
Due to the fact that there is no mountaineering shelter on the Ushba trail, you will have to spend the night in tents. You should bring a tent, a mat, a warm sleeping bag, a hat, boots, warm clothes, etc.
To climb Ushba and get detailed information on the route, it is necessary to consult a mountain guide.


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