Mestia
Margiani's House Museum
Tetnuldi is one of the most picturesque peaks in Svaneti. It is located on the main watershed ridge of Svaneti Caucasus and its height is 4858 meters. Peak Tetnuldi's routes of different difficulty attract many climbers, both beginners and professionals. However, the most popular is still the classic route.
When is the best time to climb?
July-September is the ideal period to climb the peak Tetnuldi. During this period, the weather is relatively stable and warm. Also at this time there is no more snow on the trail and the cracks are fully visible, which is an important factor for safety.
Description of the route:
The classic route of Tetnuldi is 5 days long and requires good physical and moral preparation. Note that the route is alpine and you must be accompanied by a professional guide who has climbed Tetnuldi and will ensure your safety. You will need mountaineering equipment such as crampons, tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, etc.
Day 1
You start your hike from the ski lifts of the Tetnuldi ski resort, which is located at an altitude of up to 3000 meters above sea level. It takes about 5-6 hours to hike to the base camp, although the duration of the hike depends on your walking pace and the condition of the route. The base camp is located at 3700 meters above sea level. You stay overnight in a tent at the base camp.
Day 2
This day is devoted to acclimatization. After waking up at the camp and having breakfast, you will climb to 4000-4200 meters, where your guide will explain the rules of behavior and safety on the mountain. He will once again check your equipment, health status. Guide will explain the security techniques, teach you how to use the mountaineer gear. You will practice ice walking and ice falling actions. All these procedures are necessary for your safe ascent to the summit. After training, you will return to base camp, have dinner, prepare gear and rest/sleep before climbing to the summit.
Day 3
You will have to wake up by 2 am to reach the top (although this time depends on your guide). You will have breakfast and head to the top. Since it is still night and dark at this time, you will have to hike with flashlights. The ascent path to the height of 4300 meters is not a strong ascent, although the slope of the ascent increases with the increase in altitude. Note that on the way to the top you have to cross several crevasses, after which the route becomes much more technical and where you have to walk very carefully. From the path leading to Tetnuldi, you can enjoy the beautiful views of Ushba and Elbrus. You will reach the peak after 7-8 hours of walking, from where you can see beautiful views of the Caucasus and Svaneti. After taking photos and a short break at the top, you will descend to the base camp. It will take you 4-5 hours to reach the base camp.
Day 4
This day is an extra day in case the weather was bad and you couldn't summit on the third day.
Day 5
After breakfast, you will pack up the camp and descend to the ski resort of Tetnuldi, which will take you 4-5 hours.
The peak of Tetnuldi will give you wonderful memories and emotions, but you must take into account and follow the safety norms. Do not go to the top alone or with a group that does not have an experienced guide!
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